An Argentinian Cookout

Chef Eric Scheffer, The Scheffer Group

• Favorite thing to sip while grilling?
  “Cold beer (Modelo or Red Stripe) and then a Malbec”
• What’s playing?
  “Salsa music! Willie Colón, Frankie Ruiz, Celia Cruz”
• Coolest thing about Asheville’s restaurants?
  “A diversity of cuisines” 
• What’s next?
  “Opening The Majestic, a New York-style Chinese counter and love letter to childhood days spent in Chinatown”

Eric Scheffer truly enjoys a big production. “One of the things I love most in life is bringing people together,” he says. “And there’s nothing like a big meal to do that!” As the founder and CEO of The Scheffer Group, this restaurant pioneer has built his career around the act of gathering over delicious food in an atmospheric setting. And to satisfy his most recent itch for a culinary show, this gregarious host just had an open-fire outdoor kitchen built in his backyard. Scheffer learned to love this adventurous barbecuing technique, known as asado, while living in Argentina as a young man.

“From the moment you light that fire, there’s a dance,” he says of the tricky cooking style. “It’s never the same fire twice, the timing is always different, and you have to be respectful of your ingredients—you can’t let the fire take over or that’ll mess things up. You really can’t take your eyes off of it,” says Scheffer, explaining that the fire shouldn’t be too hot or too cool but, rather, a nice, low smolder.

Stoking the Fire

^{SOUTH AMERICAN SMORGASBORD: A traditional Argentinian barbecue, the asado relies on an open fire and fresh ingredients to deliver big, bold flavor. “When cooking for others, I always make enough to have something left over,” says Scheffer, who learned this style of cooking while working in the film industry overseas.}

Much like his backyard blazes, Scheffer’s success has enjoyed a steady burn. A fixture of the local restaurant scene for over 25 years, he bought North Asheville fine dining staple Savoy back in 2000. The upscale Italian restaurant ran until the Great Recession forced Scheffer to pivot in 2010. “I saw the writing on the wall,” says the long-standing restaurateur. “It was very high-end, and people just weren’t spending that kind of money anymore.” Rather than shutter the restaurant, he shifted to a more casual concept with Vinnie’s Neighborhood Italian. “People still wanted to go out with friends and family, and this gave them a place to do that without spending an arm and a leg.” He’s since opened a second South Asheville location of Vinnie’s in the old Iannucci’s on Hendersonville Road.

Savoy ran until the Great Recession forced Scheffer to pivot in 2010. “I saw the writing on the wall,” says the long-standing restaurateur. “It was very high-end, and people just weren’t spending that kind of money anymore.” Rather than shutter the restaurant, he shifted to a more casual concept with Vinnie’s Neighborhood Italian. “People still wanted to go out with friends and family, and this gave them a place to do that without spending an arm and a leg.” He’s since opened a second South Asheville location of Vinnie’s in the old Iannucci’s on Hendersonville Road.

More recently, the hospitality guru purchased Gan Shan, keeping its West location a Pan-Asian spot and transforming the Charlotte Street location into high-end seafood joint Jettie Rae’s Oyster House. And this summer, he opened The Majestic, a classic Chinese-American eatery in the bones of the former Musician’s Workshop on Merrimon Avenue. While each stands as a distinct concept, Scheffer’s restaurants all play into his affinity for a great production—a brand of hospitality that the 66 year old has been practicing for much of his life.

Fanning the Flame

You see, Scheffer started out not in the restaurant world but the film industry. Originally hailing from Brooklyn and Long Island, Scheffer followed in the footsteps of his father—an advertising magnate for Jenkins-Covington who produced TV commercials and documentaries. Upon leaving New York for California in 1977, Scheffer took a role at one of his dad’s L.A. studios. After working his way up through the production chain, Scheffer, too, became a film and event producer.

“The whole time I was working on these projects, I was always obsessed with the food and the wine,” he laughs. “Every single night in a restaurant is just like producing a movie: you’re creating an atmosphere, an ambiance, an experience for people.”

While working in Argentina, he met his wife, who enticed him to remain in the country for a while. And that’s where he first became hooked on the live-fire cooking of celebrity chef Francis Mallmann. “In Argentina, the asado is an event,” he explains. “You start on a Sunday at one in the afternoon, and you’re done at midnight—there’s no rush, no schedule. It’s very communal. You’re drinking wine or beer, and when something is ready, you pull it off the grill and bring it to the table. Then in 10 to 15 minutes, something else will be ready, so you pull that off the grill. It’s very organic, but it’s also a production,” says Scheffer. “An asado is a true asado when the fire is still going while you serve your guests and eat.

“When Argentinians sit to eat meat, they eat meat. The salad is just a palate cleanser,” laughs the chef, whose proteins of choice are sweetbreads, Argentinian and blood sausages, ribs, and flank steak. He also doesn’t dote on them with sauces or spices. “Asado cooking is far simpler than that,” he says. “Generally, I’ll take my steak out an hour or two before cooking, salt it, and that’s it. I don’t add pepper or spices. You have to let the meat speak for itself.”

“Cooking on an asado isn’t like cooking in a pan,” he says. “A sweetbread can take anywhere from 45 minutes to an hour because you want it to cook low and slow. You’ve got to take your time. You’ve got to let it dance.”

Recipes courtesy of Eric Scheffer

Morrón con Huevos (Peppers & Eggs)

^{PEP TALK: A regular part of Scheffer’s asado repertoire, this easy-to-prepare dish makes a nice complement to the meats and veg. “The sweetness of the red peppers combines with the lush melted mozzarella, while the creamy egg provides a different texture and taste,” he says.}

(Serves 4)

• 2 red bell peppers
• Olive oil, for basting
• 1/4 to 1/3 cup shredded mozzarella cheese
• 4 eggs

While your fire builds, prep the peppers by slicing in half lengthwise and removing the seeds. When the fire is ready, place the unfilled peppers face down on a hot grill until they are warm to the touch or have a slight char on the edges. Remove the peppers from the grill and lightly coat the inside cavity with olive oil.

Put one heaping tablespoon of shredded mozzarella inside each pepper. Place them back on the grill, open side up. Once the peppers are on the grill and level, carefully crack one egg into each. Make sure the egg stays intact with the yolk unbroken.

Let the peppers cook face up for approximately 45 minutes, or until the egg whites are solid and the yolks are cooked to your liking. Carefully remove the peppers from the grill. Serve immediately.

Grilled Salad

^{SMOKY TWIST: In this fresh take on a summer salad, young romaine and radicchio are grilled until the leaves are slightly wilted. They then get chopped and tossed with fresh herbs.} 

Honey-Dijon Dressing

(Yields 1¼ cups)

• 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 1/4 cup vinegar (red wine or apple cider)
• 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard
• 1 Tbs. honey
• Juice of 1 lemon
• (continued on page 102)
• (continued from page 100)
• 1 shallot, minced (or substitute 1-2 cloves garlic)
• 1 tsp. salt
• 1 tsp. pepper

Place all ingredients into a jar and vigorously shake to combine. Shake again just before dressing the salad.

Salad

(Serves 4)

• 1 head each romaine and radicchio
• Olive oil, for basting
• 1/2 to 3/4 cup Honey-Dijon Dressing
• 1 bunch each cilantro, mint, and dill
• 1 bunch cherry tomatoes, preferably on
• their stems
• Salt and pepper, to taste

As the fire builds and the grill warms, prep the salad. Halve the romaine and radicchio heads lengthwise. Oil the cut sides, then place the heads cut-side down on the grill. Periodically check for char. Remove the romaine and radicchio once their surfaces are slightly charred, about five to 10 minutes. (The radicchio will need a few minutes longer on the grill than the romaine.)

Roughly chop both heads of greens and transfer to a large bowl. Shake the dressing jar, then drizzle dressing over the top, beginning with two to three tablespoons.

Roughly chop the cilantro (with stems), mint leaves (removed from stems), and dill (including thinner stems). Place the herbs and tomatoes in the bowl, and toss with the greens. Add more dressing, as well as salt and pepper, to taste.

Serve the salad at room temperature or while slightly warm.

Grilled Market Vegetables

^{MIXED GRILL: Grilling imparts a smokiness to vegetables’ inherent earthy or sweet foundations. “Peppers and onions are a traditional combination that softens over a fire, while fennel bulbs and asparagus offer crunch and texture,” says the chef.} 

(Serves 4)

• 2 yellow onions
• 2 bunches asparagus
• 1 large fennel bulb
• Extra virgin olive oil, for basting and finishing
• 2 red bell peppers
• 4 spring onions
• Salt, to taste

While the fire is heating, prep your vegetables. Place the onions whole either in or tightly next to the coals. Cook until they’re black on the outside. Test the onions for doneness by poking them with a knife; the blade should penetrate their layers easily. Cut the onions into quarters, and serve with their blackened skin still on.

Peel the lower two-thirds of the asparagus stalks. Cut the fennel bulb vertically into quarter-inch slices. Lightly oil both the asparagus and fennel, and arrange on the grill.

Meanwhile, place the red peppers whole on the outer edges of the grill, and roast until all sides are blackened, rotating frequently.

Remove the tips from the spring onions. Lightly oil the spring onions, and place on the grill.

Keep a close eye on the asparagus, fennel, and spring onions as they grill to avoid overcooking—they should be nicely charred but not burned. Remove the vegetables as they are ready, placing them on a cooking sheet near the flame to maintain their warmth.

When the peppers are black and soft, remove them from the fire. Place them in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and allow to rest for 15 minutes. Peel the black outer skin from the peppers and remove the stems and seeds.

To serve, arrange the grilled vegetables on a platter and drizzle liberally with olive oil. Salt to taste, and serve immediately.

Grilled Meats with Eric’s Chimichurri & Salsa Criolla

^{AS IT COMES: Asado meats must be cooked slowly over very low heat and should be served as they finish on the grill. “This is very casual dining,” says the chef.}

Eric’s Chimichurri

(Makes approx. 4 cups)

• 2 bunches flat-leaf parsley
• 1 bunch cilantro
• 4 heads garlic, finely chopped
• 1 shallot, finely chopped
• 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
• 1/8 cup red wine vinegar, plus more as needed
• Juice of 1 lemon
• 1 Tbs. each dried oregano and smoked paprika
• Red pepper flakes, to taste

Chef’s Note: Prepare chimichurri at least two hours before serving to allow the flavors to mix together, but do not refrigerate.

Coarsely chop the parsley and cilantro leaves and stems, then place the herbs in a medium bowl along with the garlic and shallot. Stir in the olive oil. Add more if needed—the mixture should be wet. Stir in the red wine vinegar, adding more to taste so the mixture has a nice acidity. Stir in the lemon juice. Add the oregano, paprika, and red pepper flakes. Stir and allow to sit before serving.

Salsa Criolla

(Makes approx. 5 cups)

• 1 medium white onion, peeled
• 1 each red, green, and yellow bell peppers
• 2 Roma tomatoes
• 3 Tbs. red wine vinegar
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 1/2 Tbs. sea salt
• 1 tsp. dried oregano
• Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

Wash and dry the onion and peppers. Dice the onion and peppers into very small cubes. Halve the tomatoes, and then remove the seeds and any juice. Dice the tomatoes as small as possible. Combine everything in a bowl.

Pour the red wine vinegar and olive oil over the veggies. Season with the salt, oregano, and pepper. Mix the ingredients well. Place in an airtight container such as a mason jar, and chill for at least one hour before serving.

Grilled Meats

(Serves 4-6)

• 1 lb. good-quality pork sausages
• 1 lb. skirt steak
• 1⅓ lbs. bavette steak
• 1 to 2 Sirloin steaks, roughly 2" thick
• Flanken-style beef short ribs, 1" thick

Chef’s Note: Choose a variety of meats based on your preferences. When it comes to pork sausages, “only good Argentinian chorizo and blood sausages will do,” says Scheffer, who buys his from Miami-based purveyor Meat N’ Bone.

Place all of the meats on the grill at once, with the biggest cut closest to the fire. Keep the sausages toward the back of the grill over moderate heat. Each meat will cook at its own pace. As items reach the temperature of your liking, remove them to a plate. Let rest for five minutes. Serve the meats as they are ready alongside Eric’s Chimichurri and Salsa Criolla.

Hot Take: Scheffer’s advice for building a cooking fire

“Prep time will vary depending on whether you use wood or charcoal,” says the chef, who prefers oak or hickory. If using an Argentinian-style grill with a brasero (attached fireside box), stack the wood as you would in a fireplace, and allow two-and-a-half to three hours before cooking. If using a chiminea, opt for lump hardwood instead of logs and allow an hour for building up the fire. “Either way, you need to start early enough to get a layer of hot coals ready. You’re looking for a nice low smolder,” says Scheffer. “The crucial part of the asado is patience: everything must be cooked slowly over very low heat and slowly.”

The Scheffer Group

Gan Shan
285 Haywood Rd., Ste. 20, Asheville
(828) 417-7402
www.ganshanavl.com

Jettie Rae’s Oyster House
143 Charlotte St., Asheville
(828) 505-4499
www.jettieraes.com

The Majestic
321 Merrimon Ave., Asheville
www.themajesticavl.com

Vinnie’s Neighborhood Italian
641 Merrimon Ave., (828) 253-1077
1981 Henderson Rd., (828) 630-8100 Asheville
www.vinniesitalian.com